Teardown proceeded to the wheel unit itself, where we found another surprise: The big motor isn’t the only one providing tactile feedback. We had expected to find name and designation for a microcontroller we might reprogram, but this is a custom chip. The electronics people in the room looked over the board and noted the main processor has a Microsoft logo on it. The main board was also removed for examination. By process of elimination, we eventually figured out the screws were hidden under a stealthy sticker that matched its surrounding color and shape so well we didn’t realize it was a sticker.Īfter that discovery, it was trivial to remove the motor gearbox assembly. There had to have been fasteners coming in the opposite direction, but none were clearly visible. The four obvious screws release the metal plate, but that is only part of the assembly. However, it proved to be tricky to remove. So I expect I can reuse this robust assembly in a physically demanding project in the future. Mechanically, this area takes the brunt of forces players would apply to the steering wheel. Here’s a closeup of the force feedback motor and gearbox. There’s one controlling the motor to provide force feedback, one to a sensor to read steering wheel angle, and a wiring harness going through the center of the steering shaft to the wheel-mounted controls. To the left is a control board with three wire bundles leading to the rest of the wheel. It proved to be a minor annoyance but easily overcome with brute force as we don’t care about putting it back together.Īfter the “lap desk” layer was removed, we repeat the process for the actual enclosure.Ī lot of destroyed fasteners and plastic later, the innards of the steering wheel is visible. Unlike the pedal unit, these screws are “security screws” with a post in the middle of the Torx shaped fastener. Most of the visible screw holes are at the bottom, where it is curved to fit on our laps. That done, we start tearing into the wheel itself. It was straightforward to open up, where we can see it is fairly simple inside.Īll the force gets dissipated by heavy duty springs and metal brackets into the beefy plastic, leaving only the rotational motion to be read by simple position encoders which are likely just inexpensive potentiometers. They are made of extremely sturdy plastic with surprising heft. These are designed to sit on the floor and take the force of frantic game players stepping hard on them. The big wheel is set aside for now, we’ll start with the pedals. I brought it to our weekly maker meetup where we can tear into this relic of the past. Since it is not compatible with my new console, where I can play all four Forza Horizon games, I see no reason to keep it around in running condition. A problem that almost certainly drove its retirement and replacement by a much smaller controller. Built to offer realism through force-feedback and take severe physical punishment, it was big and beefy and takes up entirely too much space. Physically, the biggest thing in this package was the Xbox 360 Steering Wheel. This all started when I went looking for my old Kinect sensor bar, but that’s a story for another time.
#Xbox 360 wireless speed wheel driver plus
I got the console itself back, plus my old game library and all accessories. I’ve also reclaimed my old Xbox 360 Halo 4 Edition, which I loaned out to a friend’s family but the children had lost interest in the older console. I just bought the top-of-the-line Xbox One X in order to play Forza Horizon 4 in 4K HDR.